FOOD & DRINK
LOCAL (BAKERY, BUTCHER, SUPERMARKETS)
Saint Cybranet, about 700 metres from Esparoutis, does not have many amenities but it does have a wonderful organic supermarket. For all your daily needs, we recommend that you go to Castelnaud, about 2.5 km from Esparoutis. It has a bakery (boulangerie/patisserie), butcher (boucherie), small supermarket and news agency, a cafe and two restaurants, all located around a pleasant central square from where you can admire the castle. Cycle to Castelnaud to pick up your morning croissant, and once at the bakery (closed Monday). get some bread for lunch too. Look particularly for their wonderful Tourtes—a delicious, round, solid peasant loaf of great texture and flavour. For more serious supermarket shopping, the easiest way is to drive over the hill to Cénac, where the Carrefour Contact supermarket will have everything you need. Opposite Carrefour is also the highly recommended pizza van Pizza Lolo (for takeaway pizzas).
Cénac is a bustling working village where you will find several places to eat (including a creperie), as well as other facilities such as pharmacy, laundromat, bookshop, petrol station, and so on. France is the home of some huge hypermarket chains (hypermarchés), where you can buy everything that you generally buy at supermarkets, to towels and sheets, kitchenware, cheap furniture and whitegoods. If you really want to stock up big, you can find a Casino, Carrefour and a Leclerc hypermarché in Sarlat, and an Intermarche in Gourdon (20 minutes drive from Esparoutis.
One of the great pleasures of life in France is a weekly (or more frequent) trip to the markets. Almost every village of any size has one. Below are some of the closer ones; you can find a full list by searching “Dordogne Markets” on Google (please note that most markets are open until lunchtime only):
- Beaumont: Tue, Sat
- Belvès: Sat
- Cénac: Tues
- Daglan: Sun
- Domme: Thurs
- Gourdon: Tues, Thurs, Sat
- Le Buisson: Fri
- Sarlat: Wed, Sat
- St Cyprien: Sun
- Bergerac: Wed, Sat
- Perigueux: every day, main Wed & Sat
One of our favourites is the St Cyprien markets on Sunday mornings.
FRESH FOOD MARKETS
We are developing some information – and menu recommendations – on local specialities, including foie gras, cèpes (local porcini mushrooms), truffles and last, but not least, walnuts (help yourself to all you can eat from our very own walnuts) which are used in salads, to make walnut oil, pickled and in appéritifs, liqueurs and spirits. But don’t forget all the other wonderful fresh and preserved products available from the Bio supermarket in Saint Cybranet, from the weekly markets and even the supermarkets. The vegetables are often of truly high quality and very flavoursome here.
There are excellent wine regions within a short distance. The newly revived Vin de Domme is grown on the hills around our area, produced and marketed through a local cooperative of producers. About an hour west to Bergerac is the start of the Dordogne Valley wine growing region extending from Bergerac through St Emilion to Bordeaux. Monbazillac near Bergerac is widely known for its excellent dessert wine, while Pécharmant is one of the best known red wines of the Bergerac area. An hour southeast you will find the robust red wines of the Cahors area, and a more southern flavour to the towns and villages.
A short selection of local restaurants. Guests will receive a ‘manual’ for Les Paroules when they have booked, which will include up-to-date details on a range of local restaurants and menus, as well as sites and activities.
Walking distance along the main road towards St Cybranet, pizza and routine meals, good for when there’s nothing in the fridge!
Castelnaud Cafe Restaurant
On the Castelnaud square with a view of the castle, great for coffee and BYO croissants from the bakery, serves basic plat-du-jour and fixed menu lunches. For when you can’t be bothered cooking!
Next to the bridge in Castelnaud, excellent Basque food, tapas and a Perigourdine menu. View towards the chateau and river.
La Belle Étoile
For a bit of a splurge head for the spectacular village of La Roque Gageac and La Belle Etoile. Wonderful local cuisine with an upmarket touch.
Le Près Gaillardou
Another excellent restaurant, at Gaillardou just beyond La Roque Gageac, run by the former owners of our property.
Le Petit Paris
Traditional quality cuisine in the charming village square at Daglan.
Ferme Auberge Maraval
On the road south of Cénac. Modest price and huge meals served with local products. Hearty rather than gourmet. Like all Fermes Auberges you need to book.